RawFeeding

I switched the pups to a grain-less kibble (Orijen) a couple of years ago. Many of my dog-owing pals, who know how dedicated I am to maintaining the health and wellness of my 4-legged friends, made the switch after I did. I spent days researching food, analyzing ingredients, comparing brands of grain-free dog food.
Once I made the switch, and my dog-loving friends found out, they followed.... nothing like someone (else) doing the legwork!

For about 3 or 4 months after I made the change, the local feed store would special order Orijen for me and a handful of others. At one point the store's owner commented 'boy, after you started buying that food, we had a rush in demand.' They're carrying it now.

Hmmmmm, I wonder why!

My latest dietary improvement for my canine companions is a raw diet. Having a large freezer is crucial. The stand-up unit I have in my basement (left with the house when I purchased the place) is now stuffed with beef, chicken, ground 'variety meat' (read 'ground organs'), fish, whatever is on sale. I get odd looks from the checkout people when I show up with a cart full of roasters or economy pack hamburger. "Don't you want some vegetables with that?"

The Big Guy is a chow hound. He's always been enthusiastic about food, and is thrilled with the new cuisine. Snarf, inhale, hork are all accurate descriptors of how he consumes his tucker, especially now.

The Little Princess, not so much. She was anointed with her nickname in part because she has always been a dainty diner. When she got kibble, she would enjoy every morsel individually, picking up each piece and chewing happily away.

Now that she's being fed raw, she very much enjoys hamburger and the variety meat. The other food does not appeal to her. She'll lick the bowl, perhaps lick what's there, but frequently picks up a piece then drops it on the floor. Several days ago she did polish off several spare ribs, but who wouldn't? I prefer mine cooked, however.

I give her a tiny bit of hamburger with each meal. This way she can get the supplements she needs. I'm hoping that she'll get hungry enough to twig onto the fact that this food is mmmmm, mmmmmm, G-O-O-D for dogs. The health benefits are supposed to be amazing. She doesn't agree - yet!


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Guidelines for raw feeding: adapted from a post from the rawfeeding discussion group on Yahoo!

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The main guidelines for feeding your Canis Lupus Familiaris (domestic wolf) are:

1) Quantity: Feed 2-3% of ideal body weight per day. (More for young, energetic, active dogs. Less for older, slower dogs).

2) Proportions: Feed: 80% meat + 10% bone (in the meat) + 5% liver + 5% other organ (kidney, skin, lung, pancreas, brain, eyeballs, etc.)*

*you don't have to do this everyday. This should balance out approximately over the month.
Note: heart, stomach and intestines are fed as muscle meat.
Note: too much organ at once can cause diarrhoea. Too much bone can cause constipation.

You can add raw fish and whole raw eggs (including shell) occasionally. No veggies, fruits, grains or supplements of any kind are needed.(Dogs can get all the vitamins, minerals, proteins, fats and enzymes they need from raw meat).

3) Types of Meat: Feed whole prey as much as possible as this is what they would eat in the wild (whole chicken or chicken halves or chicken quarters, turkey legs or breasts, whole rabbits, lamb shanks or shoulder, goat or pork racks (ribs), shoulders, back, neck. beef heart, etc., according to the size and requirements of your dog. (Only a lucky few can frequently give whole sheep/goats/pigs/cows/deer, etc. to their dogs, but you can aim to give the same amount of meat /bone / organ over the course of a month). Try to give a variety of meats as much as possible.

4) How to feed: Don't cut, grind or offer small pieces. Let the dog crunch and work his jaws. The bigger the piece you can give, the better. For example, a 25 kg dog can be given a 500 gram chicken quarter (breast and wing, or leg and thigh). There is no danger of choking on large pieces of meat, but avoid smaller, swallow size pieces of meat, such as turkey necks that can be swallowed whole and stick in the throat. Dogs have no trouble crunching and digesting raw bones. Only cooked bones are dangerous.Meat can be offered frozen, cold or at room temperature.Even meat that has gone off (by our standards) is probably fine for your dog. (Think about how your dog can bury meat and dig it up weeks later and eat it).

For simplicity, freeze daily portions of meat in freezer bags. Take out of the freezer several hours ahead of feeding time to defrost. Give to dog.

5) Converting a dog to raw: Puppies can start on raw as soon as they are weaned, from 5-8 weeks. They can eat whole prey including bones and adapt more easily than mature dogs. (Raw meat is better for their steady growth and avoids sudden growth spurts caused by the carbohydrates in dry dog food, which is why dogs brought up on raw do not suffer the joint and bone problems of many other dogs).
Older dogs can be switched 'cold turkey'. No need for a slow transition, but it's best to start with one kind of meat and stick with it until the dog has got used to the change. For example, start with chicken (take skin off if it causes loose stools) and introduce a new meat after a couple of weeks. Don't give liver or other organs until your dog is used to the new meats.

Note: avoid letting your dog decide the menu. If your dog doesn't like what you give him, put it away until the next meal, or the next, or the one after that. He won't starve and will eat when he's hungry. Eventually he'll learn that you are the pack leader, not him, and he'll eat what he's given. If you give him what he wants every time, you'll just make a fussy dog. If they absolutely refuse a meat, you can try lightly searing it or sprinkling some cheese on top until they get used to it.

6) What to avoid: Never give cooked bones - these can pierce and tear a dog's intestine. Never give weight bearing bones (eg: cow leg bones) as these can break teeth. (You can scoop out the marrow with a spoon and give it to your dog). Avoid giving plain bones - always make sure it is hidden in the meat. Wild game (eg: wild boars, venison, possibly rabbit, salmon) should be frozen for up to 2 weeks (at -10 degrees centigrade / -20 farenheit) to kill parasites. Human grade meat from slaughterhouses should be fine, but if in doubt, freeze first.

Never give 'swallow size' pieces of meat. Dogs do not chew their food, they can't. They crunch, break and swallow. Give them big pieces and they will crunch and swallow the right size with each mouthful. Avoid chicken necks and turkey necks on their own, as these can get stuck in the oesophagus. (It's ok if they are attached to the bird still).

Check that the meat you give is not enhanced - no added salt (no more than 0.80mg). Try to give 'organic' meat or meat that has not been treated with antibiotics as much as possible, though unfortunately this is way too expensive for most people.

7 Feeding times: In the wild, wolves eat when they can. This may be smaller animals every day or so, or larger animals once every four or five days. Most or our dogs have got used to eating once or twice a day, but if a dog gets programmed to a rigid feeding schedule, he can start to vomit bile which he will produce in expectation of food. To avoid this do not feed according to a tight schedule. Vary the amount of food each day and the feeding times. Some people prefer to let their dogs self regulate or 'gorge feed'. They allow the dog to eat as much as they can and then don't feed them again until they are hungry, maybe two or three days later. These dogs tend to establish an ideal weight by themselves and never eat more than they need. Work out what works best for your dog. (Others prefer to avoid this method as they suspect that it may lead to bloating or other problems).
Puppies need to be fed 2-3 times a day and pregnant and nursing bitches should be given as much as they want to eat.

8) Things you should notice after switching to raw: your dog will drink less water (meat is 60%+ water), and will poop far less than before (no wasted carbohydrates). This is normal. Stools will vary according to diet - it won't be the same every day. Loose stools are fairly normal and should not be confused with diarrhoea. They may change colour and consistency and occasionally contain mucus and bits of bone. Over time you'll work out what meats suit your dog's digestive system best.

Your dog will soon have better energy levels, but will also sleep better after meals. His coat should become shinier and he will get to a better weight. His immune system will be better so less need for medical interventions. His teeth will be cleaner and whiter and lose the tartar. He will develop better jaw and muscle strength. He will be much happier, and for the majority of dogs, switching to raw is like going to doggy heaven! He will not become more aggressive or prone to attacking other animals. This is a myth.

9) Things to watch out for: some dogs can be allergic to some meats, but they are less likely to be allergic on raw food diets. Many dogs on dry dog food diets that have allergies, clear up completely on a raw diet. However, if you see any of the following signs it may be worth changing meats to try and rule out possible allergens: constant vomiting or diarrhoea, unwillingness to eat, lethargy, excessive blood in vomit or stools. If in doubt - see a vet.

10) Cost: if you shop around it's usually possible to buy good meat for less or same price as you've been spending on dried dog food (kibble). Supermarkets sometimes have deals on certain meats, frozen meats, etc. but try to make sure they are unenhanced with salt or additives. If you visit slaughterhouses or butchers and ask they may be able to give you free stuff, but don't just rely on bags of fat and unwanted bones. Get organs and body parts that are not normally used.
Some people prefer to rear their own meat (rabbits, chicken, etc.) for their dogs, while others are lucky enough to find road kill or hunt their own.